Astrophotography crash box

Have you been thinking about building your own astrophotography crash box? It’s a great project that gives you a reliable backup system for your astrophotography setup, making sure you’re never stuck without access to your remote PC while out capturing the night sky. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the entire process step by step, covering everything from selecting the right case to installing the monitor, keyboard, and necessary connections. By the end, you'll have a fully functional crash box ready to go whenever you need it.

What is an Astrophotography crash box anyway?

A crash box in astrophotography is basically a protective device that helps prevent damage to your imaging setup if something goes wrong with your telescope mount. When you're running a motorized mount, especially one that's automated, there's always a chance it could move too far and hit something, like your tripod legs, a cable, or even the ground if something's really off. A crash box is a hardware solution that monitors the movement of the mount and can cut power if it detects a collision or an unsafe position. This helps avoid expensive damage to your gear and keeps your imaging session from turning into a repair project.

A lot of folks use software-based limits to stop their mounts from crashing, but a crash box is a more physical, immediate safeguard. It can be especially useful for remote observatories or when you’re imaging overnight and not watching things closely. Some crash boxes work by monitoring current draw from the motors, and if they detect a sudden spike, like what happens when a mount physically hits something, they shut things down. Others use sensors placed at key points to detect impacts or obstructions. It’s not something every astrophotographer uses, but if you're running an expensive setup or leaving it unattended, it’s one of those things that can save you a lot of trouble.

There aren’t really any big brands selling a prebuilt crash box for astrophotography. Most people who use them just build their own. It’s one of those things that some astrophotographers have put together themselves to protect their gear. If you don’t want to build one, there are other ways to prevent crashes. A lot of mounts let you set software limits so they don’t move too far. Some people also use limit switches or motor cut-off devices from general electronics stores, but you’d have to figure out how to set that up for your gear. There’s no plug-and-play option, so it just depends on how much effort you want to put into it.

DIY astrophotography crash box: Material list

First things first, you'll need to gather all the components for this project. Douglas Reynolds, also known as AstroAF, demonstrated in his recent video to use an Apache 1800 case from Harbor Freight, which measures 8 inches by 5 5/8 inches by 3 3/4 inches. This sturdy case comes with pick-apart foam, making it ideal for customizing the interior layout.

For the display, a mini LED monitor works well. He utilized part of the monitor's shipping packaging to mount it securely inside the lid of the case. To attach the monitor, clear pure silicone adhesive is effective. Apply a bead around the perimeter of the monitor's plastic backing, avoiding any electronic components, and press it into place on the foam insert.

A compact folding keyboard with a touchpad is essential for input. While Bluetooth keyboards are common, AstroAF preferred a USB connection for reliability. If you opt for a Bluetooth keyboard, ensure it can also connect via USB or have a backup USB keyboard on hand.

For connectivity, an interface cable with HDMI and USB inputs is necessary. AstroAF used a 1 1/8-inch hole saw to drill through the side of the case, allowing the cable to pass through. After drilling, applying silicone around the hole helps maintain the case's waterproof integrity.

Additional tools and materials include:

• Adapters for HDMI and micro USB connections to the monitor.
• An X-Acto knife and straight edge for cutting the foam.
• HDMI and USB cables to connect the components.
• A drill for creating the necessary openings in the case.
   

Preparing the case and foam

Start by removing the foam insert from the lid of the case. This foam will be used to mount the monitor. Place the monitor on the foam to determine where to cut, ensuring there's enough space for the HDMI and micro USB adapters. AstroAF found that shifting the monitor slightly allowed for better access to the ports.

Using a pencil, mark the areas on the foam that need to be removed to accommodate the monitor and its adapters. Carefully cut along these lines with the X-Acto knife. If you remove any foam pieces, consider reattaching them with CA glue to maintain a snug fit around the monitor.

Once the foam is cut to fit the monitor and adapters, apply a bead of silicone adhesive around the edges of the monitor's plastic backing. Press the monitor into the foam insert, ensuring it's securely attached. Allow the silicone to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions before proceeding.

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Installing the interface cable

Next, decide where to drill the hole for the interface cable. AstroAF chose a spot on the side of the case, considering the placement of internal components and ease of access. Using the 1 1/8-inch hole saw, carefully drill through the selected area. After drilling, clean up any debris and apply silicone around the hole to maintain the case's waterproof seal.

Insert the interface cable through the hole, ensuring the connectors are accessible inside the case. Secure the cable in place, possibly using the provided plastic nut, and apply additional silicone to seal any gaps.

Connecting the components

With the monitor securely mounted and the interface cable installed, it's time to connect everything. Inside the case, AstroAF used a USB hub to manage the various connections. The USB hub allows multiple devices, such as the monitor and keyboard, to connect to a single USB port on your main computer.

Connect the monitor's micro USB and HDMI inputs to the corresponding outputs on the interface cable. Then, connect the keyboard to the USB hub. Ensure all cables are neatly arranged to prevent damage when the case is closed.

Final touches

Before closing up the case, consider adding a desiccant pack inside to absorb any moisture and protect your equipment. AstroAF also placed a piece of foam between the keyboard and monitor to prevent scratches during transport.

Once everything is in place, close the case and test your crash box by connecting it to your telescope's remote PC. Ensure that the monitor displays correctly and that the keyboard inputs are responsive.

By following these steps, you'll have a custom-built astrophotography crash box, providing a reliable backup system for your remote telescope operations.

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